A 52 BCHR with a XF to BBB Waterman Ideal nib from Mauricio.
I checked what inks many recommended for super-flex nibs, and had a few. R&K Scabiosa I'd not used for much yet. It was iron gall and would dry quick.
It did. It did well on most papers tested. It is just the start. I've only had it inked for 20 minutes.
I took the 52 and R&K ink to my Gmund and MK paper (German) samples. In that Gmund costs €35 for 50 or 100 sheets depending on which...I intend to dither a very long time. Certain inks work 'best' on the 170g, others on the 120 and of course a couple did great on the 100g....that is three slightly different types of paper at those weights.
On (US) Southworth 90g ivory I marked down as scratchy. Otherwise it was 'toothy' in most cases. A couple it seemed less toothy...to bad I didn't mark that down. Must have been early in the quick scribbling.
I'm sure with 100% cotton it would smooth out, but there would be very little shading left, in 100% cotton swallows that.
Ancient 'iridium' is not as smooth as modern after The War. It is lumpy, chunky and prone to have pieces break off. "Iridium' for fountain pens was perfected in or just after WW2. So grinding to over smooth such old nibs can grind chunks off.
I ordered through my B&M G. Lolo Paper laid Verge De France 160g 25% cotton. That is not a paper for that nib. I can think any laid could/would cause that nib to hang up a couple of times a line....sort of scratchy.
G. Lolo Velin 125 g 50% cotton. writes 'ok' but there are parts of strokes that don't show up every other line. There is Rail Road'ing when trying the fancy L....That paper is not for that ink, or not that nib or both.
Neither of these papers lived up to my expectations. I've got to get the regular 90-100g versions.
I just tired my Australian 'flexi' BB stub Snorkel on those two papers....hacked a letter or two on the laid, and was 'toothy' on the 125g...to my surprise. I guess those papers are best with nibs with a big American Bump under (Many of the '50's German nibs were rather flat under the tines. Some of the 'no name' German semi-flex nibs I have from the '60's do have an American Bump under. The only pen I have inked that had the American Bump under was a Parker, it mastered both papers easily.)
There is no perfect nib, paper or ink. With luck one finds the perfect combo though. Persistence helps in the luck file. Max cost is not always a winner.
My 'fancy' letter is an capitol L, and with a good ink, on ok paper it will show a small
trapezoidal block from when the nib crosses back over the end of the long stroke of the L just as it curves. That is the only place and letter I press a nib. Even then I don't press to the max. Much of flexible writing as done by those who can...not I, is about how fast the nib snaps back. I took a light down stroke and pressed once relatively hard on one side of it,and a bit harder on the other. Yes, the nib goes from EF to BBB. I really don't have to do that all the time...now do I?
I can get a full English handlebar mustache L letter out of a nib like this with good flex. Do read Richard Binder's article on how easy it is to spring a nib.
My test phrase is Let it Be. (Quick writing not trying to max a letter.)
L e t i t B e ... The fancy letters L and B get a bit Bold, the t's get crossed and the e ends up with some swing of flow. I started doing that with my first semi-flexes and continued to give me an idea what the nib would do, and or what the nib and ink would do.
The first pen I bought off of Ebay was a Waterman Graduate...that chrome fingerprint trap was the first pen I sold on Ebay too.
I want a Waterman Woodgrain or Ripple some day....when I know more.