Nib Smoothness Out-of-the-box ?

[Desirider]

I started using fountain pens again, and have recently (in 2006) bought an OMAS, few Pelikans, a Waterman, a Sailor and a few Pilots. The nibs were mix of fines and mediums (some Japanese).

 

All of them wrote well out-of-the-box. None of them had mis-aligned tines or were scratchy by any means. But one of them was noticeably smoother than the rest, which I think is statistically normal. However, it made me realize that the other nibs could be made smoother.

 

After some research here, I discovered the wonderful Micro Mesh 12000. I ordered a few of them and started polishing some nibs, starting with the inexpensive Pilot Varsity, and slowly moving up as I gained some confidence. The results were amazing - writing just a few 8s and drawing a few stars on the MM 12000, the nibs became significantly smoother.

 

I now stopped doing this, as I prefer to leave some "feel" to the nibs, and don't want them to be too smooth.

 

Do you do something similar ?

 

Desirider.

Edited September 10, 2006 by Desirider

[goodguy]

As the scardy cat that I am I let the experts work on my pens and nibs.I made a test run on esterbrook with a fine paper like yours and as I expected I destroyed the nib.

That was the first and last time I tried any nib work.

[georgem]

I've "scribbled" on brown paper bags with good results: the nibs became smoother as a result, but the abrasive action is mild, allowing for frequent testing on good quality paper.

[kissing]

What you're doing is ok I guess - I think that's what nibmeisters would do when smoothing a nib that they'd just grounded as well.

 

Just don't overdo it. I read somewhere (i think it was nibs.com? cant remember) that if you sand it up too much, even with micro-mesh, you might end up creating a flat-spot on the nib creating a scratchy sensation. However, this will only be the case if u rub it excessively. Enjoy your smoothed nibs

[Desirider]

georgem,

 

I also tried brown bags and other non-abrasive materials, but the results were not consistent. MM 12000 is not so bad actually. Scribbling some 10-20 8s was sufficient is most cases.

 

kissing,

 

"flat-spot" - been there, done that. Since I couldn't find Micro Mesh in any stores nearby, I picked up a 2000 grit paper from an automotive parts store while waiting for my online order to arrive. The 2000 grit paper will create a flat-spot in no time It is easy to go from a fine -> medium -> stub

 

You folks are right - it is risky business, but that's what Pilot Varsities are for

 

Desirider.

[Michael Wright]

I've probably spoiled more nibs than I've smoothed, and I've stopped trying now (though I still do check and adjust tine alignment).

 

I'm told that the problem with smoothing a nib by writing with it is that you may create a very small sweet spot that is good for (one variety of) your handwriting, but less good for anyone else. Rather like the occasional old nib you find that has obviously done a *lot* of writing, and has finally formed to its previous owner's hand.

 

Of course, if you're not concerned with posterity (what has posterity done for me recently?), I guess it doesn't matter. <_<

 

Best

 

Michael

[wspohn]

However, this will only be the case if u rub it excessively.

I thought that was supposed to make you go blind.......

 

 

I'd be pretty careful with any abrasive near the nib, considering the cost and inconvenience if you foul it up.

 

Geez, what next, do it yourself dentistry.....

[Ron Z]

There have been one or two pens that I've been willing to live with out of the box. Most of them get some kind of attention in the process of becoming acceptable. I have learned that I do not have to accept the way that a pen writes.

 

How to smooth a nib is a hard thing to explain, but it takes time to learn. I recommend that you do not try if you are not good with tools, or if you do not find mechanical things to be intuitive. Above all else, do not try to learn on an expensive pen, or one that you really care about!! I do my own nibs, but I had Richard grind the nib on my Visconti Skeleton LE.

 

I also recommend that you use a very fine abrasive, like Richard's 10 micron film, or 0.5 micron smoothing film. Go slowly, check, frequently. Look closely at a nib that you like and study the shape of that nib.]

[RyanL27]

I tried nib smoothing once, and it's decidedly not for me. I'm not patient enough nor disciplined enough to do it properly, which I learned at the expense of some pretty decent pens (nothing too expensive, thank goodness). In fact, I had to throw my smoothing abrasives away because the temptation to perfect a nib was just too much for me, and I knew that I'd likely screw it up.

 

Proceed with caution....

[Desirider]

And oh, I forgot to mention - a minimum 10x loupe is a must. The 22x Peak loupe is better.

 

Desirider.

[KendallJ]

I smooth my nibs with mylar sheets. I use a 10x loupe and a methodology with a few key sorts of patterns. Generally, if you use a very fine abrasive, it's tough to go wrong, but if one doesn't have a methodology it can be frustrating when results don't materialize.